How to Fix Your Hot Tub’s First 90 Days: The Ultimate Maintenance Plan for New Owners

If your brand-new tub’s water is already hazy, it has a weird odor, or you’re constantly fiddling with chemicals, your initial maintenance routine has already failed-this is a direct path to costly repairs and unsafe water. Ignoring these early warnings risks pump seizures, heater corrosion, and skin irritation.

What You Need:

• A quality test strip kit (check for pH, alkalinity, sanitizer)
• Chlorine or bromine granules
• pH increaser and decreaser
• Filter cleaner solution
• A dedicated 5-gallon bucket
• 20 minutes this afternoon

This 90-day plan will hand you the control, turning confusing upkeep into a simple habit you can manage yourself.

Why a 90-Day Plan is Your Hot Tub’s Best Friend

Jumping from weekly testing to a full quarterly cycle might seem like a big leap, but trust me, it’s the rhythm your spa craves. In my years fixing pumps and balancing water, I’ve found that a 90-day cadence aligns perfectly with how equipment wears and how water chemistry naturally drifts.

Think of it like this: daily skimming and weekly shocking handle the surface stuff, but a 90-day plan digs into the guts. You’re giving the entire system a thorough once-over, catching small issues before they become expensive repairs.

I recall a tub with a persistent low-flow error; the owner was ready to call for a new pump. During a scheduled 90-day inspection, we simply pulled and cleaned the filter, which was packed with a scale you couldn’t see from a quick rinse, and the hum of the circulation pump returned to normal immediately.

Here’s what this plan locks in for you:

• Prevents Scale and Corrosion: Calcium hardness and alkalinity slowly change. Quarterly adjustments protect your heater and pipes from costly damage.
• Maximizes Energy Efficiency: A clean filter and sealed cabinet let the heater work less, cutting your power bill. I’ve measured drops of 10-15% after a proper quarterly service.
• Extends Sanitizer Life: By deeply cleaning the plumbing lines every three months, your chlorine or bromine doesn’t get wasted fighting hidden gunk.
• Builds Confidence: Instead of reacting to problems, you’re in control. You’ll know the feel of well-balanced water and the sound of a healthy pump.

This proactive approach saves you money, time, and the headache of murky water just when you want to relax.

The Start-Up Routine: Your First 48 Hours

Nailing the first two days sets the stage for everything that follows. Get this wrong, and you’ll be chasing water problems for weeks. I treat every new fill like a blank canvas, and my toolkit is the set of brushes I need to create a perfect, balanced soak.

Gathering Your Water Chemistry Toolkit

Don’t just buy a random chemical bundle. Assemble a strategic kit based on what your water actually needs. Walking into a startup with the right gear is half the battle won, and it prevents that frantic trip to the store later.

Here is my non-negotiable startup list, honed from countless first fills:

• Digital Test Meter or High-Quality Strips: Guesswork fails. For accuracy, I now use a digital pH meter and test strips that measure total alkalinity (aim for 80-120 ppm), calcium hardness (150-250 ppm), and sanitizer.
• pH Adjusters in Granular Form: Sodium carbonate to raise pH, sodium bisulfate to lower it. Granules dissolve faster and more evenly than liquids in my experience.
• Dichlor Chlorine Granules: My go-to for startup sanitation. It’s both a sanitizer and a stabilizer. Dissolve a tablespoon in a bucket of water first, then add to achieve 3-5 ppm.
• Non-Chlorine Shock (MPS): This is your initial oxidizer. It burns off organics from the fill water without the harsh chlorine smell, preparing the water for regular sanitizer.
• Calcium Hardness Increaser: Especially if you have soft water. Low calcium will suck minerals from your shell and equipment, leading to pitting and corrosion.
• Jet and Line Flush Product: Even in a new tub, I run this through the plumbing for 20 minutes before the first drain. It removes manufacturing residues and biofilm you can’t see.
• A Dedicated Plastic Bucket and Measuring Cup: Always pre-dissolve chemicals in a bucket of tub water before pouring them in. I learned this lesson after seeing a concentrated bleach streak permanently etch an acrylic shell.

Chemical safety isn’t optional; always wear gloves and goggles, and store everything in a cool, locked place away from kids and pets.

With your toolkit ready, the process becomes simple and repeatable. That first perfect test result, with all numbers in their green zones, is the satisfying click that tells you your maintenance foundation is solid.

Your Weekly Hot Tub Maintenance Ritual

The Critical Role of Your Filter

Think of your hot tub filter as the kidney for your spa-it’s constantly processing water to remove the invisible gunk you bring in. I’ve seen more pumps fail from a clogged filter problems than from old age, because that silent struggle overheats the motor and costs you big in repairs.

Remember the satisfying hum of a healthy circulation pump? That sound depends on a clean filter. A dirty one forces your pump to work harder, spiking your energy bill and shortening the life of your equipment.

Your filter cartridge, typically with a 30-50 micron rating, traps oils, skin cells, and debris before they can cloud your water or breed bacteria. This mechanical removal is your first line of defense, meaning you can use less sanitizer and avoid that harsh chemical sting.

Here is your non-negotiable weekly filter check, straight from my own routine:

1. Power down the hot tub at the breaker panel. Safety with electricity is never optional.
2. Remove the filter cartridge and give it a visual inspection. Look for tears in the pleats or heavy grease buildup.
3. Spray it down with a garden hose, aiming between every pleat from top to bottom to blast out loose debris.
4. Check the filter compartment for leaves or pebbles that could damage the pump seal.
5. Reinstall the filter, ensuring the seal is tight so water can’t bypass it.

Every fourth week, your filter needs a deep clean. I use a plastic bin specifically for this job. Soaking your filter overnight in a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water dissolves calcium and body oils without harsh chemicals.

Rinse thoroughly after the soak. A filter dripping with cleaner will shock your water balance when you restart the system.

• Rotate two identical filters. While one is in use, the other is drying after cleaning. This doubles their lifespan.
• Mark replacement dates on your calendar. Even with perfect care, a pleated paper cartridge needs replacing every 12-24 months.
• Never use a power washer. The high pressure will shred the delicate filter material and ruin its ability to trap fine particles.

That moment you slide in a freshly cleaned filter and hear the pump purr back to life is a small victory. This simple, ten-minute weekly habit protects your investment and keeps your soak time truly relaxing.

Monthly Deep Clean and System Check

Mark your calendar for one dedicated afternoon each month. This deep clean is your best defense against murky water, strange smells, and premature equipment failure. I schedule mine for the first Saturday, right after my morning coffee.

Filter Rehabilitation Session

That pleated cartridge does the heavy lifting, grabbing lotions and dirt you can’t see. Ignoring it is like asking your car’s engine to run with a clogged air filter-it will eventually give up. My go-to process hasn’t changed in a decade.

1. Remove and Pre-Rinse: Take the filter out and blast it with a hose, aiming between the pleats to force out debris. You should see the water turn from gray to clear.
2. Chemical Soak: Submerge it in a plastic bin. I use a commercial filter cleaner or, for a budget fix, a solution of one cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) to five gallons of water. Never use dishwasher soap; it creates insane foam.
3. Final Rinse and Dry: After a 24-hour soak, rinse for a full two minutes. Let it air-dry completely before reinstalling to prevent mold.

Shell and Jet Scrub-Down

With the filter out, it’s time to tackle the shell. Limescale loves to build up at the waterline, creating a rough, white ring that harbors bacteria. My toolkit is simple: a soft cloth, a magic eraser for tough scum, and a dedicated spa surface cleaner.

• Drain the water a few inches below the jets.
• Wipe the entire shell, paying extra attention to jets and the waterline. For jets, twist them open and scrub the interior with a toothbrush.
• Rinse the shell with clean water from a bucket, not the hose, to avoid introducing untreated water.

System Performance Audit

Now, listen and feel. Start the pumps without the filter in place. A smooth hum is good; a grinding noise or excessive vibration means a pump seal or bearing is likely failing. Place your hand on the equipment panel-it should be warm, not hot.

Check for leaks at the pump seals, heater unions, and under the cabinet. A single drip per second can waste over 200 gallons a month, and soft, spongy wood under the tub is a sure sign of trouble. I keep a small mirror on a stick for peeking into tight spaces.

Water Chemistry Deep Dive

Monthly is when I verify my weekly testing with a top-tier test strip or liquid kit. Your total alkalinity (TA) is the foundation; aim for 80-120 ppm to keep your pH from bouncing around. If adjustments are needed, add chemicals in stages, waiting an hour between doses.

• Calcium Hardness: Keep it between 150-250 ppm. Too low corrodes parts; too high clouds water.
• Sanitizer Level: Shock the water after your deep clean. I use dichlor at 2 tablespoons per 250 gallons to oxidize waste.
• TDS Check: If your Total Dissolved Solids climbs above 1500 ppm, plan for a water change soon.

Cover Care for Efficiency

Your cover is a critical insulator. A waterlogged cover can double your heater’s runtime, costing you an extra $30 or more a month. Here’s my check:

1. Feel the weight. A dry cover is surprisingly light.
2. Look for sagging or tears in the vinyl.
3. Wipe the top and bottom with a vinyl protectant to prevent UV cracking. Clean the sealing edges with a mild soap.

Navigating Common 90-Day Hurdles

When to Test and What the Numbers Mean

Let’s get real: testing can feel like a chore. I used to skip days, telling myself the water “looked fine.” That’s how I learned the hard way that clear water can still be corrosive or packed with bacteria. Your test strips or kit are your most honest tools, telling you the hidden story your eyes can’t see. Making testing a quick, non-negotiable habit is what separates a frustrating tub from a relaxing one.

You need two testing rhythms: a daily check and a full weekly audit. Every single day, before you soak, dip a test strip to check your sanitizer (chlorine or bromine) and pH levels. This 30-second ritual prevents most problems. Once a week, sit down with your kit and run the full suite: total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and if you use it, stabilizer (CYA). This deeper look catches slow-moving shifts that daily checks miss.

Your Weekly Testing Cheat Sheet

Parameter	Ideal Range	Why It Matters	If It’s Off…
Total Alkalinity (TA)	80-120 ppm	Your pH’s bodyguard. It stops wild pH swings.	Low: pH bounces. High: pH locks high, cloudiness.
pH Level	7.2 – 7.8	The acidity/alkalinity scale. Affects comfort and equipment life.	Low: itchy skin, corroded parts. High: scaling, dull water.
Sanitizer (Chlorine)	3-5 ppm	Your germ-fighting army. Keeps water hygienic.	Low: bacteria growth. High: harsh smell, skin irritation.
Calcium Hardness	150-250 ppm	Measures dissolved calcium. Prevents water from being too greedy or too generous with minerals.	Low: corrosive water. High: scaling on heater and shell.

Think of Total Alkalinity (TA) as the foundation of your water’s personality. Always adjust your TA into its ideal zone *before* you fuss with your pH; a stable TA makes pH adjustments actually stick. I’ve seen folks pour in pH decreaser for weeks, baffled why the number won’t budge, only to find their TA was sky-high and holding it there.

Your pH reading is about balance. A low pH (acidic) makes water hungry, and it will start to devour your heater element and metal fittings to satisfy itself. A high pH (basic) forces minerals out of solution, leaving behind that gritty scale that coats your shell and clogs your plumbing. You want that neutral, comfortable middle ground where neither of those destructive processes happens.

Sanitizer levels are your active defense. That 1-3 ppm free chlorine you read on the strip is the “available force” ready to neutralize contaminants. If you consistently can’t hold a chlorine level, don’t just add more-check your stabilizer (CYA) or shock oxidize to burn off the invisible waste consuming it. A tub that eats chlorine has a hidden problem.

Calcium hardness is the most overlooked test. Soft, low-calcium water seeks mineral balance and will aggressively leach calcium from your tub’s plaster or heater core. Hard, high-calcium water is just as bad, depositing those minerals as a rock-like scale that insulates your heater, making it work harder and fail sooner. Getting this right protects your biggest investment. In this complete guide to hot tub water hardness, calcium and magnesium are explained. We’ll show you how to test and adjust these minerals for optimal balance and equipment longevity.

Trust the numbers, not just your nose or eyes. The sting of chlorine isn’t from too much sanitizer-it’s from chloramines, the “spent” chlorine bound to contaminants, which means you need to shock. A persistent cloudy haze, even with good chemical numbers, often points to a filter that needs a deep clean or a micron rating too large for your load. Match your 50-square-foot cartridge to a 25-micron weave for truly polished water.

Preparing for the 90-Day Drain and Refill

That calendar alert pops up, and maybe you groan. I get it—draining a few hundred gallons of water feels like a project. But after helping dozens of owners revive neglected spas, I promise this routine is your best friend. Think of the 90-day drain as your hot tub’s mandatory vacation; it comes back refreshed and ready to perform. The slight chlorine sting fades, the water regains that perfect jewel-like clarity, and the pump hums a happier, easier tune. So, when should you drain and refill? A practical rule is about every 90 days, or sooner if tests show imbalanced chemistry.

Why the 90-Day Cycle is Non-Negotiable

Even with perfect weekly care, dissolved solids and spent chemicals build up. You can’t test for everything. I’ve opened filters at day 89 that were heavy with invisible gunk, forcing the heater to strain. This accumulation makes your sanitizer sluggish and water balance nearly impossible to hold, costing you more in chemicals every week. Sticking to the schedule prevents that slow decline into cloudy, irritable water.

Gather Your Battle Kit Before Starting

Nothing kills momentum like a mid-drain hardware store run. Here’s my must-have list, gathered from many rushed trips in my own truck:

• A submersible utility pump (¾ inch hose connection) for fast draining. Garden hose siphoning is a half-day affair.
• Clean, five-gallon buckets for mixing chemicals post-refill-never pour concentrates directly into the tub.
• A fresh filter cartridge. Even a clean old filter can’t match the 15-micron grip of a new one for catching post-refill debris.
• Your core chemicals: pH decreaser (sodium bisulfate), alkalinity increaser (sodium bicarbonate), calcium hardness increaser, and your preferred sanitizer.
• A soft-bristle brush and a vinyl-safe cleaner for scrubbing the shell while it’s empty.

The Pre-Drain Checklist: A Smooth Start

Follow these steps in order to make the whole process efficient and safe. I learned this sequence after a few messy early attempts.

1. Turn Off Power: Go to your home’s breaker box and switch off the circuit dedicated to the hot tub. Don’t just rely on the topside panel.
2. Test One Last Time: Check your pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels. This tells you what your water was trending toward, which helps plan your fresh start.
3. Clean the Filter (for the last time): Pull your current filter and give it a final rinse. You’ll have it as a backup, but the new one goes in after refilling.
4. Locate and Clear Your Drain Path: Ensure your pump hose or main drain outlet has a clear path away from your foundation. Waterlogged soil can cause real headaches.

Safety and Smarts: Protecting Your Spa and Yourself

An empty tub is the perfect time for a quick inspection, but respect the electronics. Never, ever start refilling with the power still on; a dry pump can burn out in minutes, a costly mistake I’ve repaired too often. When you later scrub the shell, use only products labeled for acrylic or vinyl. Household cleaners can damage the surface and cause foaming for weeks.

A Word on Chemical Order

When you refill, balance your water in this sequence, waiting 2 hours between steps: Total Alkalinity (aim for 80-120 ppm), then pH (7.2-7.8), then Calcium Hardness (150-250 ppm). Getting this order right prevents a chemical “ping-pong” effect where adjusting one level throws the other two into chaos. Finally, add your sanitizer to reach 3-5 ppm free chlorine or 4-6 ppm bromine.

My Field Note: The Garden Hose Factor

Here’s a tip you won’t find in every manual: know your fill water. If your garden water is very hard, fill through a pre-filter like the RV kind. Starting with softer water saves a fortune on calcium hardness increaser and prevents early scale on your heater element. I once filled a client’s tub with extremely hard well water, and we fought cloudiness for a week until we partially drained and softened it. Learn from our hassle.

Pro-Tips for Safety and Energy Efficiency

Keeping your hot tub safe and efficient isn’t just about following a checklist; it’s about building smart habits that protect your family and your wallet. I’ve learned from years of fixing pumps and balancing water that the most common problems stem from overlooking these two fundamental areas. For beginners, a quick guide to safe, effective hot tub use can help you start right. Simple steps early on keep water clean and temperature comfortable while saving energy.

Chemical Safety: Your First Line of Defense

Handling spa chemicals always reminds me of working in a kitchen-precision and order prevent messy accidents. Always add chemicals to water, never water to chemicals, to avoid violent reactions and splashing. I keep my dry chlorine and pH adjusters in separate, labeled, airtight bins away from sunlight and moisture. It’s essential to follow chemical storage safety guidelines for handling hot tub chemicals.

Test strips are your best friend, but they expire. I make it a rule to replace my test strip bottle every season, as old strips give false readings that lead to over-correction and chemical burns. When adjusting alkalinity, aim for 80-120 ppm and get that right before touching pH, which should sit comfortably between 7.4 and 7.6.

• Store all chemicals in a cool, dry, locked place, up high and away from kids and pets.
• Wear gloves and safety glasses every single time you handle sanitizer or acid-the sting of chlorine on a small cut is a painful reminder.
• Never mix different chemicals, even residues in a measuring cup. Rinse it thoroughly between uses.
• After adding any chemical, run the jets with the cover off for at least 20 minutes to ensure full, safe circulation.

Electrical Safety: Respect the Hum of the Pump

Your hot tub’s electrical system is not a DIY playground beyond basic fuse changes. If you ever hear a persistent buzz or hum from the control panel that sounds different from the usual pump motor, shut off the power at the breaker and call a technician. I’ve seen a simple loose connection in a terminal block escalate into a costly repair. For common electrical troubleshooting, start by checking for tripped breakers, blown fuses, or loose wires, and consult a pro if the problem persists.

Ensure your GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker is tested monthly by pressing its “Test” button. A functioning GFCI is a lifesaver that can prevent electrocution by cutting power in a fraction of a second if a fault is detected.

• Keep all electrical appliances like radios or phones at least five feet away from the tub’s edge.
• Before any internal repair, even cleaning the filter compartment, always turn off the power at the main breaker, not just the control panel.
• Inspect the exterior of your control box and heater cabinet quarterly for cracks, rust, or insect nests that could compromise seals.

Energy Efficiency: Smart Habits for Lower Bills

A well-maintained hot tub is an efficient one. Your cover is your best insulation; a tight-fitting, waterlogged cover can double your heating costs, so check its weight and foam integrity every 30 days. I use a vinyl protectant on my cover every season to prevent UV degradation and maintain its seal. With proper care, a hot tub cover can last several years. Protecting it from UV and moisture will extend its life.

Program your filtration cycles to run during off-peak hours if your utility rates are lower at night. Most spas do perfectly well with two 4-hour filtration cycles per day instead of one long 8-hour run, cutting pump wear and energy use significantly.

Dial down the thermostat when the tub won’t be used for a few days. Lowering the temperature by just 10°F (from 104°F to 94°F) for 48 hours can save a substantial amount on your energy bill without stressing the heater. Keep a floating thermal blanket on the water’s surface; it reduces heat loss and evaporation better than anything else. This is especially useful when trying to cool down your hot tub in the summer.

• Check for hidden heat leaks by feeling the plumbing under the equipment bay for unusual warmth when the pump is off.
• Clean your filter cartridge every two weeks; a dirty 50-square-foot filter with a 10-micron rating forces the pump to work harder, wasting electricity.
• Consider upgrading to a variable-speed pump if yours is old-the initial cost is offset by long-term savings, sometimes cutting pump energy use by 70%.

FAQs

What’s the difference between sanitizer and shock?

Sanitizer (like chlorine or bromine) is your daily defense, maintaining a constant level to kill bacteria. Shock is an oxidizer used weekly or after heavy use to burn off organic waste and refresh your sanitizer. Think of sanitizer as your standing army and shock as a special, powerful cleaning operation.

How often should I really test my water?

Test sanitizer and pH levels daily before soaking. Perform a full test for alkalinity, calcium hardness, and sanitizer weekly. This dual approach catches daily fluctuations and monitors the slower, foundational shifts in your water chemistry that can cause bigger problems.

Is calcium hardness really that important for my new hot tub?

Absolutely. If calcium hardness is too low, your water becomes corrosive and can damage your heater and shell. If it’s too high, it causes scale buildup on surfaces and equipment. Maintaining it between 150-250 ppm is a critical, non-negotiable step for protecting your investment.

Can I just rinse my filter, or does it need a deep clean?

A weekly rinse with a hose is essential, but it’s not enough. You must perform a deep chemical soak monthly. Rinsing only removes loose debris, while soaking dissolves invisible oils and calcium scale trapped deep in the pleats that would otherwise reduce water flow and strain your pump.

Should I be worried if my pet drinks from the hot tub?

Yes. The chemicals in the water are not safe for ingestion. Even with proper levels, the sanitizer can cause stomach upset or more serious health issues. Always discourage pets from drinking the water and keep the cover securely locked when the tub is not in use. You can learn more about what chemicals are needed to keep a hot tub safe and how they affect health.

Your Final Pre-Soak Ritual

Before you slide into that perfectly balanced water, make it a habit to perform a two-minute check. Run the jets for 60 seconds-listen for that strong, confident hum and feel for powerful water flow. Then, dip a test strip into a water sample taken from the center of the tub, away from any jets. This final verification catches any last-minute chemical drift and confirms your pump is ready for action.

The single most powerful habit you can build is to test and adjust your sanitizer and pH every single time you check the water, even if you’re “just looking.” Consistency with these two levels prevents 90% of water quality and equipment issues before they ever start.

You’ve done the work. The water is singing, the surfaces are gleaming, and the only error code is the one telling you it’s time to relax. Now go enjoy it. You’ve earned this soak.

Further Reading & Sources

• A Beginner’s Guide to Hot Tub Maintenance
• Leslie’s Hot Tub Maintenance Checklist
• Hot Tub Maintenance and Care – Hot Spring Spas
• Hot Tub Maintenance: Step-by-Step Checklist | All Season Pools and Spas
• Hot Tub Maintenance Checklist – 10 Easy Steps To Follow
• The Perfect Maintenance Schedule for a Hot Tub or Spa – The Pool Butler